From The Peyote Foundation Journal (Vol. II, No. I) Aug. '97
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Summer is here! Daytime temperatures in our sacramental shadehouse rise above 100° F. This is exactly the kind of weather in which peyote loves to grow. Early rains have already made an appearance this season. This too is something that the divine cactus seems to absorb as increased rate of growth and a vibrancy that makes the plants seem to almost glow! Older plants are producing new heads at their base, as are several plants whose tops were removed last fall for re-rooting.
Our grafting project is now providing abundant new heads from each original grafted specimen that was begun one year ago. These heads were sliced high, leaving 1/2 inch of peyote base attached to the host plants (Myrtillo and Trichocereus). Only a few weeks pass before the section of peyote left on the host begin to burst forth with new, fast growing heads. Eight or more heads can erupt in a very short time, with the average number being three or four. These new starts may be sliced for grafting or direct re-rooting once they are a half inch or so in diameter. This will not take long during the hot days of summer. Remember to always let all cuttings form a callus in a dry atmosphere for at least a week before placing in soil. Sliced, callused tops form new roots most efficiently in a porous medium of sand, vermiculite, and perlite. Too much moisture or soil fertility slows rather than speeds the process. It appears that peyote sends out roots in search of moisture, rather than as a reaction to it. The light porous rooting medium dries quickly, allowing regular waterings with thorough dry periods between.
Because of kind donations from several Native American Church officers, we have had a steady supply of new seeds for planting. The peyote fuzz, or cleanings, which are usually scraped from the centers while preparing the sacrament, often contain seeds or old seed pods that remained in the plant when harvested. We have been blessed by these precious seeds which might otherwise never grow. The percentage of successful germination varies from batch to batch. Maintaining the right amount of light and humidity for those seeds that do sprout is something that requires a certain amount of attention. Shifting summer sun course and intensity calls for a watchful eye, as newborn seedlings will burn quickly. Usually this is indicated by a reddish coloration, rather than the healthy green of a properly lighted plant. We have placed our seedling bed in the Northeast side of the shadehouse where it receives 90% shadecloth protection during from the brightest portions of the day. I also am using an additional covering over the seedlings of another 40% strip of shadecloth. Though you might think that 90% shade, plus 40% shade, equal 130% shade, in fact the brightness of the Sonoran Desert still illuminates the double protected nursery with bright, diffuse light. Many of this seasons yearlings are exhibiting robust growth, which makes me wonder whether the variations of Lophophora williamsii in our collection might be producing offspring displaying F1 hybrid vigor. This is a common occurrence in horticulture when variations of the same, or similar species exchange genetic material for the first time. I appreciate any comments or accounts from the readers of this column regarding their own experiences with hybridization of peyote.
We recently expanded the shadehouse using available materials. One inch diameter PVC pipes were arched over the top of the already existing structure and covered with shadecloth. Sixty percent shadecloth was installed for the first four feet of height and ninety percent shadecloth is above that, for another four feet. This allows the mellow morning sun in the Eastern sky to be partially blocked until the higher angles of the late late-morning can be blocked by the darker cloth. This increase in shade blocking as the day progresses is a good thing to plan for in sunnier environments. One way to accomplish this without having to purchase two types of shadecloth is to simply double-over the shadecloth you are already working with in the overhead portions of your shadehouse. This effectively doubles the shading efficiency.
The sacramental shadehouse was expanded to create more space for our steadily growing stock plant base. We thank God for leading us, quite miraculously, into the path of a person of faith who was praying to find somebody to help him plant some old-growth peyote, with roots, that had come his way. Surely these beautiful specimens found us, thanks largely to the prayers of our new friend. Thank you Richard, for having the faith in this medicine to know that you would be led in the right path! This blessing now brings our stock plant count back to the original number of plants which we had prior to the October '95 raid on our home. In that incident, approximately 400 plants were lost due to improper storage during the 14 weeks they were held by the Pinal County Sheriff's Department. We are very grateful, though we are still saddened by the loss which occurred at that time. Nearly 600 of those original plants returned by the county are again thriving in the sacramental shadehouse. They have now been replanted for over a year. This plant appreciates being cared for in a respectful way. We thank God for the responsibility of caretaking the sacrament, despite the occasional difficulties.
Our future intentions are to maintain a minimum number of seed producing stock plants as a genetic trust-fund for the species. Above this number, we would then begin to transfer adolescent plants in to the wild in its native regions where depletion is now a threat, or current reality. This work will require cooperative effort with the State of Texas, landowners, and the licensed Texas peyote dealers. Though this goal lies well in the future, we are in the planning stages of laying the groundwork for such a hopeful re-planting project. Future editions of this column will discuss these possibilities in greater detail, and as always, we welcome your input.
Frequently Asked Cultivation Questions
Q. What type of soil is best for growing peyote in, particularly for sprouting peyote seeds?
A. Porous sandy mixes, with fairly low humus content works well for peyote. This is easily done by mixing clean sand, vermiculite, and perlite in nearly equal portions. Vermiculite and perlite are puffed mineral soil conditioners commonly available in the US, with similar products being available in the rest of the world. Avoid peat based mixes as these tend to be on the acid side of the pH scale. Alkaline or neutral soil apparently makes peyote the happiest. Eroded limestone or chalk soils are often present in areas where this cactus grows in the wild. Though, in many cases these natural conditions can be improved on, they also show us which way to go. For seed sprouting, I screen the above 3-way mix to a fine consistency. I sometimes add small amounts of kelp-seaweed powder, high phosphorous seabird guano, or alfalfa meal to this seedling medium. Once sprouted, I also water seedlings occasionally with dilute seaweed solution.
Q. I have some peyote plants in my home that used to look like regular peyote buttons, but now are growing tall and thin. Is this normal, or am I doing something wrong?
A. Peyote grows tall when exposed to less than ideal amounts of sunlight. I am not sure whether this is an attempt to reach a brighter space, but it is very common in under-lit areas of people's homes. I suggest that you find a North facing window, with all day, bright, but diffused sunlight for your plants to grow. If this is not possible, supplemental lighting might be called for. An easily available, incandescent plant light will work well on one, or a few plants. Some people have discovered that higher power, metal-halide type grow lights also work well for indoor culture of peyote and other cacti. There is probably no need to go over 250 watts for all but the most ambitious of indoor cacti patches. Plants that have elongated in low light conditions will eventually form a normal "button" after being provided with more appropriate lighting. Often, they develop a thick skin on the formerly green portion below the new head. Before this occurs, elongated plants make great grafting candidates. Take the top portion of the skinny specimen and graft it. After a week or so, in which the cut plant forms a scar preventing loss of moisture, the midsection that remains of the tall plant can also be grafted onto a graft host. The root base will eventually sprout new heads. This technique allows two grafts and several heads from each elongated plant.
Q. How long does it take for peyote to grow from a seed to a mature specimen?
A. Though this always varies according to environmental factors, it is not unusual for wild specimens to take ten or more years before producing their first flower. They might be 1 and 1/2 or two inches in diameter at this point. Plants grown at home, under optimum condition may only tale five years to reach this stage of growth. Planting peyote from seed is much like planting fruit trees, in that several years may go by before tasting the first fruit of ones' efforts. As is also the case with fruit, the rewards are well worth the wait.
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